Arriving back to the U.S. after 19 months felt like an assault to the senses. Even being in Lisbon on Portugal Day with all its busyness didn't quite prepare me for re-entry.
Any given day in Portugal, I seem to accidentally wander into an open-air museum. Sometimes I’m sort of looking for it — murals, street art, painted walls, the odd little corners I’ve started to notice. Other times, the exhibit appears without warning.
I’ve gotten to the point where I want to take off the training wheels and put my translation app away. The problem is, I’m not always sure what I’m ordering — or what just arrived.
My food literate goal is being able to recognize enough words to avoid ordering ensopado (stew) when it is espetadas (skewers) I want.
Matera is built along the edge of a deep ravine, with the Sassi di Matera cascading down the hillside in layers of stone, steps, and narrow paths that rarely run in straight lines.
The plan was simple enough: walk for six days and arrive in Matera. The reality included wolves, caves, old paths, and a landscape that kept revealing itself.
Napoli is alive. We visited this lively city on a 17-day trip through Italy—one that moved quickly from city streets to coastlines to long days on foot. But it started here.