Reentry

Reentry

Arriving back to the U.S. after 19 months felt like an assault to the senses. Even being in Lisbon on Portugal Day with all its busyness didn't quite prepare me for re-entry.
Open Air

Open Air

Any given day in Portugal, I seem to accidentally wander into an open-air museum. Sometimes I’m sort of looking for it — murals, street art, painted walls, the odd little corners I’ve started to notice. Other times, the exhibit appears without warning.
Food Literate

Food Literate

I’ve gotten to the point where I want to take off the training wheels and put my translation app away. The problem is, I’m not always sure what I’m ordering — or what just arrived. My food literate goal is being able to recognize enough words to avoid ordering ensopado (stew) when it is espetadas (skewers) I want.
Matera to Rome

Matera to Rome

Matera is built along the edge of a deep ravine, with the Sassi di Matera cascading down the hillside in layers of stone, steps, and narrow paths that rarely run in straight lines.
Napoli Unscripted

Napoli Unscripted

Napoli is alive. We visited this lively city on a 17-day trip through Italy—one that moved quickly from city streets to coastlines to long days on foot. But it started here.