Swiss Pretzels

Swiss Pretzels

The departure from Zermatt was normal enough, but when we changed trains at Visp, we discovered that ours had been swapped out for a smaller one. Apparently, the passengers hadn't been downsized to match. It was standing room only, with everyone packed in tight.
A Matter of Altitude

A Matter of Altitude

Next stop, Zermatt! Three days of mountain views, cable cars, scenic trains, and a few adventures that didn't go quite as planned. We were finally in the Alps, and we had some serious altitude to tackle.
The Swiss Cheese

The Swiss Cheese

Our Swiss adventure began in Lausanne, where we found overpriced hamburgers, a town called Ouchy, plenty of cheese, a surprising encounter with Alien, and cows with some pretty impressive real estate. And we hadn't even reached the Alps yet.
Moor or Less

Moor or Less

Our last couple weeks were shaped by a mix of historic impulses and pure accident, charting a path through ancient Islamic strongholds, sleepy coastal towns, and the winding backroads of the Iberian Peninsula.
Gosto de Agosto

Gosto de Agosto

In August, the Algarve becomes crowded with tourists, and many of them are Portuguese. People from northern Portugal hurry down to the Algarve beaches to squeeze in a holiday before school starts and regular routines return. Luckily, we know the quieter places ...
Sem Plano

Sem Plano

As the finer details of San Diego fade, what still echoes is curiosity—namely, people asking about our plans and us offering only vague answers. Perhaps the absence of a plan is our plan now. And after a lifetime of planning, letting go of plans sounds like a great plan to me.
Reentry

Reentry

Arriving back to the U.S. after 19 months felt like an assault to the senses. Even being in Lisbon on Portugal Day with all its busyness didn't quite prepare me for re-entry.
Open Air

Open Air

Any given day in Portugal, I seem to accidentally wander into an open-air museum. Sometimes I’m sort of looking for it — murals, street art, painted walls, the odd little corners I’ve started to notice. Other times, the exhibit appears without warning.
Food Literate

Food Literate

I’ve gotten to the point where I want to take off the training wheels and put my translation app away. The problem is, I’m not always sure what I’m ordering — or what just arrived. My food literate goal is being able to recognize enough words to avoid ordering ensopado (stew) when it is espetadas (skewers) I want.