The Alentejo is Calling - Shiny Penguin

The Alentejo had been calling, so we answered with a lunch plan. Mértola would be the destination. Everything else was negotiable.

That very loose plan led us to ancient monuments, tiny villages, sweeping views, and roads we never would have taken otherwise. We revisited one of our favorite Alentejo towns, chatted with locals, found a museum that may or may not have required knowing someone named José, and narrowly escaped eating beef tongue for lunch.

The day’s first invitation came not long after we left the main road, when a brown sign for a Monumento Megalítico appeared and immediately settled the question of whether we were stopping.

Menires do Lavajo

The Monumento Megalítico sign was like a magnet, pulling our car first onto a well-paved road and then onto gravel. Naturally, we followed it. Eventually we reached a small parking area with an easy walking path leading toward the monument. The informational placard nearby was unfortunately in rough shape, faded and partially damaged, but there was still enough left to piece together some of the history.

What we visited was Lavajo I, part of the Megalithic Set of Lavajo, which actually consists of two separate nuclei: Lavajo I and Lavajo II. These monuments date back to the Neolithic / Early Chalcolithic period, around 3500 BC, and are believed to have functioned either as territorial markers, sacred spaces, or perhaps both.

Apparently Lavajo II is only about 250 meters away, though we later learned it consists of four smaller toppled menhirs with far fewer carvings.

Lavajo I consists of the main menhir, a second smaller stone, and a third fractured stone now preserved at the Archaeology Museum in the New Castle of Alcoutim.

The main menhir is a massive 3.14-meter phallic monolith — one of the largest known menhirs in Portugal. We did not know that when we posed beside it. Not that it would have changed anything.

It also looks less towering in photos because much of it remains buried underground. Archaeology is all about context.

Via Algarviana

Near the Menires do Lavajo we spotted a sign for the Via Algarviana. I immediately texted the owner of Spanish Steps suggesting they should offer the route.

The reply came back: “Guides: Pam and Tom.” Touché.

Mértola

This was our second visit to Mértola, but this time we slowed down and explored more deeply.

Mértola has a layered feeling to it — Roman, Islamic, medieval, Portuguese — all stacked together above the Guadiana River. The town always feels dramatic as you approach it, rising above the landscape with the castle watching over everything.

We spent more time at the church this visit, taking time to look at the carving at the entrance. Originally built as a mosque during the Islamic period, it remains one of the most distinctive churches in Portugal.

Nearby, we explored the ruins of the Islamic neighborhood close to the castle.

Of course we also climbed up to the castle again for the views.

On the way back to the car, we stopped into O Salvador for the Prato do Dia. These kinds of places are our favorites. Simple food, local people, no fuss. I ordered the Frago but they heard Forno (at least it wasn’t the Língua). Tom had the Carne Alentejana.

Pratos do Dia (Daily Specials)
Costeletas à Casa (“House Style” chops, typically grilled or fried pork chops).
Carne no Pingo (Roast meat served in its own flavorful pan drippings).
Carne Alentejana (Marinated pork cubes cooked with clams and potatoes).
Entrecosto Frito (Deep-fried marinated pork spare ribs).
Bacalhau à Casa (The restaurant’s signature “House Style” salted cod dish).
Queixadas no Forno (Oven-roasted pork cheeks on the bone).
Arroz de Tamboril (A soupy, flavorful monkfish rice stew).
Frango Estufado (Classic chicken stew slow-cooked with wine and vegetables).
Strogonoff (Meat in a creamy mushroom sauce, usually beef or chicken).
Língua Estufada (Slow-braised beef tongue in a rich sauce).

The Way Back

On the way out of Mértola, we found our way to Poço dois Irmãos, a historic rural water well getting its name from two enormous parallel rocks situated nearby.

And yes we tested the well.

Espirito Santo

A sign welcomes to Espirito Santo, a small village located on the side of the EN122, the road linking Beja to Vila Real de Santo António.

Here we saw a primary school and a beautiful whitewashed church overlooking a vast open space. We parked and saw some people repainting a long wall that ran alongside the road. We chatted with them briefly and learned one of their mothers lives in Tavira!

Alcaria dos Javazes

We were lured into Alcaria dos Javazes by a sign advertising its Núcleao Museológico. As we drove in this small village, it appeared that no one lived here. We found one car and 3 dogs before we found the museum. The small well-worn sign in the window said to contact José if you want to see the museum. If only we knew him.

As we admired the village, a car pulled up nearby. Maybe that was José?

We took one last look around, wandered past the primary school, and stopped to read the village sign on our way out of town.

Recently Captured

Cats In Mértola

These cats seemed to anticipate visitors.

A Cat In Alcaria dos Javazes

A cat was hanging out by an outdoor fitness machine in this little village.

More Portugal

Read more about daily life, the embarrassing moments, and the process for having a long stay in Portugal. If you are more of a picture person, follow me on Instagram.