Swiss Pretzels

Swiss Pretzels

The departure from Zermatt was normal enough, but when we changed trains at Visp, we discovered that ours had been swapped out for a smaller one. Apparently, the passengers hadn't been downsized to match. It was standing room only, with everyone packed in tight.
A Matter of Altitude

A Matter of Altitude

Next stop, Zermatt! Three days of mountain views, cable cars, scenic trains, and a few adventures that didn't go quite as planned. We were finally in the Alps, and we had some serious altitude to tackle.
The Swiss Cheese

The Swiss Cheese

Our Swiss adventure began in Lausanne, where we found overpriced hamburgers, a town called Ouchy, plenty of cheese, a surprising encounter with Alien, and cows with some pretty impressive real estate. And we hadn't even reached the Alps yet.
Reentry

Reentry

Arriving back to the U.S. after 19 months felt like an assault to the senses. Even being in Lisbon on Portugal Day with all its busyness didn't quite prepare me for re-entry.
Matera to Rome

Matera to Rome

Matera is built along the edge of a deep ravine, with the Sassi di Matera cascading down the hillside in layers of stone, steps, and narrow paths that rarely run in straight lines.
Napoli Unscripted

Napoli Unscripted

Napoli is alive. We visited this lively city on a 17-day trip through Italy—one that moved quickly from city streets to coastlines to long days on foot. But it started here.
Espanha Double Dip

Espanha Double Dip

Residency cards in hand, we wasted no time putting them to use. On Thursday, we crossed into Spain with friends for a relaxed day in Ayamonte. But one day wasn't enough, we returned on Friday to check out the town of Huelva.