Residency cards in hand, we wasted no time putting them to use. On Thursday, we crossed into Espanha (España) with friends for a relaxed day in Ayamonte. But one day wasn’t enough, we returned on Friday to check out the town of Huelva.
Ayamonte
Ayamonte was all about shopping, strolling, and ending with tapas. The kind of easy outing that feels more like slipping into daily Spanish life than sightseeing.
Ayamonte sits at the mouth of the Guadiana River, directly across from Vila Real de Santo António in Portugal. Its history has been tied to its role as a border town and trading port. The Phoenicians and Romans passed through, but the town really took shape in the Middle Ages under both Moorish and Christian rule. Thanks to its location on the river, Ayamonte became a center for salt production, fishing, and shipbuilding.
The old quarter is a tangle of narrow streets, small squares, and whitewashed houses with tiled facades — classic Andalusian style. At its heart is Plaza de la Laguna, the town’s long-standing social hub. Even Columbus has a loose connection here: this stretch of coast, including Ayamonte and nearby Palos, was the launching point for his voyage in 1492.
Here is a map of where we wandered.
We parked just outside the center and wandered in on foot, starting at Plaza de la Laguna. Pam and I browsed the shops while the guys lingered over coffee at a sidewalk café. Together again, we headed to the Mercado de Ayamonte, buzzing with fishmongers and produce stalls.
Just in time for lunch, we met up with Libby and her brother at LPA The Culinary Bar for tapas — the perfect way to celebrate our new residency cards. And really, the food says it best, so I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.
On the way out of town, we made a practical stop at Mercadona before crossing back over the border — because no international adventure is complete without stocking up there.
Huelva
The very next day, our usual Adventure Day routine kicked in. Just the two of us, back over the border, farther inland to see what Huelva had waiting.
Huelva is a working port city at the confluence of the Odiel and Tinto rivers, just inland from the Atlantic. But Huelva is best known for its link to Christopher Columbus. From the nearby Monasterio de La Rábida, he planned his first voyage across the Atlantic in 1492 with the support of the Franciscan friars. Today, replicas of the Niña, Pinta, and Santa María can be seen at the Muelle de las Carabelas.
Here is where we went:
Columbus
Huelva leans into its Columbus connection. Just outside the city at the Monasterio de La Rábida, Franciscan friars supported Columbus’s daring plan for a westward voyage. Today, the monastery still holds artifacts and chapels tied to that moment.
Nearby, the Muelle de las Carabelas lets you climb aboard full-size replicas of the Niña, Pinta, and Santa María — part history lesson, part playground. It’s one of those places where the story of 1492 feels unexpectedly tangible.
Muelle Cía Río Tinto
Back in the city, the Río Tinto Pier tells a very different story. Built in the 19th century by the British-owned Rio Tinto Company, it once shipped copper from the mines inland. Today, the long iron pier has been transformed into a promenade stretching into the river. Walking out across its weathered planks, you get a mix of industrial heritage and sweeping views.
Wandering in the Center
Huelva’s daily life centers on its squares and churches. Plaza de las Monjas is the heart of the city, shaded and lively, overlooked by a statue of Columbus. Just off the square, the Gran Teatro adds a dash of grandeur with its impressive façade.
The city’s churches, like the Iglesia de la Purísima Concepción and Iglesia de La Milagrosa, mix quiet tradition with Andalusian flair. The Convento de las Agustinas, tucked away on a side street, adds another layer of history — a reminder that Huelva’s story is equal parts faith, commerce, and culture.
Wandering the surrounding streets, we even spotted a shop called Los Angeles, which for a second made me wonder if I’d taken a very wrong turn somewhere along the way.
Before heading back to the car, we grabbed a bite to eat — and that’s when this San Diego transplant learned something new. In Spain, taquitos doesn’t mean rolled-up tacos; it just describes how the meat is cut. A little vocabulary lesson served up alongside lunch.
More Portugal
Read more about daily life, the embarrassing moments, and the process for having a long stay in Portugal. If you are more of a picture person, follow me on Instagram.
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