With holiday lights turning on at the end of November, it felt like a continuous party. But by the end of the year, I started to feel like a limp strand of lights with a few bulbs that flicker.
Apparently a super flu was going around, and despite its name, I heard it wasn’t that great. I was upping my vitamins like a champ and evaded the flu this round. But by Christmas I hit the wall hard, plans were canceled, and just like that I was absorbed into the Christmas–New Year’s void.
I knew I had to break free. A Queen tribute band was the New Year’s Eve headliner in Praça da República, Tavira’s main square, and that was my sign to rejoin the world.
It turns out New Year’s Eve was not the triumphant comeback I imagined—but that comes later. First, a rewind.
Christmas Celebrations
The celebrations kicked off on December 11 and ran straight through Christmas. Between the parties were concerts, dinners with friends, and excursions to admire Christmas lights in various towns. I don’t think I’ve ever packed so many festivities into one stretch of time, and by late December, it was starting to show. My energy began quietly tanking on December 23, and by Christmas evening, I was home reconsidering my life choices.
Volunteer Gathings
First up, on December 11, was the East Algarve Cleanup group gathering at the Black Anchor. Highlights included Tom accidentally twinning with another group member—and our proud achievement of winning third place in the attendance award. A strong start. Possibly too strong.
The following evening was with the Cruz Vermelha Portuguesa. Our volunteer crew topped out at 14, but the full crowd was easily 150–200 people. The venue was a spot along the N125 called Xicken—hilariously pronounced SHE-kin, since the Portuguese word for chicken is frango. That organization, it turns out, knows how to throw a party. Apparently it went until 1:30 a.m. I was not among the survivors.
A few days later, on December 22, a small group of us brought gifts to the children’s home in Tavira—a quieter moment.
Natal e Hanucá
On December 21, we started with a Christmas lunch at Natalina and Nunes’s farm. That evening, we shifted gears completely and were invited to a friend’s home for the final night of Hanukkah. Two entirely different celebrations, indeed, and one very long day of celebrating —we didn’t make it home until after midnight.
Christmas Eve
We needed some exercise, so on Christmas Eve we walked into town and promptly ran into stilt walkers—Santa and a reindeer—effortlessly navigating the cobblestones from an impressive height. It felt festive and surreal, though we didn’t linger. We were on a schedule.
Christmas Eve officially began back at home with the making of Christmas Crack and fudge. To prevent kitchen interference, the cats were stationed at a safe distance, where they supervised closely and judged our technique.
That evening, we headed to dinner at Libby’s, and it was divine. Food was shared, presents were exchanged, and for a few moments, it felt like being home with family.
Christmas Day
Christmas Day may have come early, but we still managed to sleep in. After exchanging gifts with the cats, we headed out for a bike ride through the salinas. It was Tom’s first time back on a bike since breaking his shoulder, so we took it as gently as possible.
Recent rain had turned parts of the path into mud, but we navigated around the worst of it and declared the ride a success. We even took what may become our new Christmas tradition: a photo in front of a towering mound of salt—our version of snow.
After the ride, we skipped the traditional cinnamon rolls and opted for Bolo Mago (Magician’s Cake) instead. Made with pistachios, almonds, walnuts, apricots, and candied orange—maybe we found a second new tradition?
The Void
During the void between Christmas and New Year, I mostly laid low. But when you schedule a mammogram in a medieval city, you get up and go—void or not.
These are photos I took during that outing in the towns of Loulé and São Bras (which resembles sans bras strangely enough).
The mammogram itself was… different. As an uptight American, I’m accustomed to nudity in art, preferably when I am not the piece of art. There was no gown involved, which meant standing around between the mammogram and ultrasound in a state of unexpected exposure. I eventually opted for my puffer jacket. Practical, if not elegant. When the ultrasound was finished, I was handed a sheet of gigantic waxy paper—very much like the kind you get with gelato—to clean up.
Key takeaway: bring your own gown and wet wipes. Enjoy the photos.
On another day, we popped over to Portimão in the western Algarve. It reminded us a little of San Diego, with just enough of a New England vibe mixed in to keep things interesting. So maybe my “void” wasn’t really a void after all.
NYE
The NYE tribute band was lackluster. It was hard to believe how such great songs could lose all their oomph. Everything felt rushed, the scats nearly erased, as if they were trying to outrun the music instead of play it. I had high hopes, but once again, I pushed through.
“We need whiskey,” my friend declared. Why wasn’t surprised when I turned and saw her tossing back a miniature bottle she pulled from her magic purse.
January Plans
We started January with a bang—quite literally. From our rooftop, we could see eight different New Year’s Eve fireworks displays stretching along the Atlantic coast. It was spectacular. The cats, however, were not impressed.
We slept soundly afterward, a stark contrast to last year when we lived closer to the center. Back then, the party went until 4 a.m., and it felt like the club had relocated to our living room. This year, I could have heard a pin drop.
On New Year’s Day, Tom joined a group for a polar bear plunge. I observed. Maybe a third tradition has been unearthed?
An Unavoidable Void
Looking back, December wasn’t one long party or one long crash. It was a mix of showing up, slipping away, and finding small moments of calm in between.
Next up: a small getaway. We’re heading to Óbidos, a compact historic town in central Portugal, completely enclosed by medieval stone walls. Of course, knowing us, I don’t expect we’ll stay entirely contained. We have a habit of wandering off into unexpected places.
More Portugal
Read more about daily life, the embarrassing moments, and the process for having a long stay in Portugal. If you are more of a picture person, follow me on Instagram.
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