Two Seasons - Shiny Penguin

The Algarve really only has two seasons: summer and winter. Right now, we’re in winter — even if the calendar (and the temperature) suggest otherwise. Here the season is defined by ferry timetables and restaurant hours. When the ferries switch to “winter mode” and favorite spots have only lunch service, you know summer is over.

This week also came with some expressive skies. A hurricane headed toward the Açores weakened into a tropical storm by the time it reached the mainland of Portugal. In Tavira, we still got the drama — enormous dark clouds and streaks of light from our rooftop.

Driving a Carro is Não Calma

I finally figured out what bugs me about driving here. It isn’t the shifting or the traffic rules — it’s the roundabouts and the fact that I never get a pause. Back in the old country, I was used to catching my breath at freeway exits or red lights. Here, it’s go-go-go.

This week I leveled up: a night run to Faro airport, rush-hour traffic on the return trip, gridlock from a bike race, more driving in the centro, parking and backing, even popping up on sidewalks when the road left no choice.

Not exactly calma, but I’m better for the practice.

First Guests

Our first visitors from the U.S. were already free of jet lag having spent three weeks in Ireland, so they arrived ready to dive right into Tavira. We started with our weekly coffee meetup, then walked up to the castle.

That night I was back behind the wheel — driving on sidewalks (as one does) to see the flamingos near Forte do Rato and Quatros Águas before dinner at D’Gusta. With Tim and Beth being vegetarians, we had a full vegetarian spread (the photos tell the story better than I can).

The next day came early and the sleepyheads missed the early trip to the Mercado, but we did take them out to our former landlord’s quinta for lunch. Yes, I drove those dusty back roads and everyone arrived in one piece.

The next morning, we headed for a walk at Praia do Barril, then later drove out to Cacela Velha and the Parque de Lazer to check out the deer — and a little black cat who stole the show.

Our 30th Wedding Anniversary

Some couples celebrate thirty years with a quiet dinner or a trip somewhere romantic. We marked ours with… more roundabouts. Honestly, it feels about right.

We drove to Alcoutim, made it through the city and even parked without incident — already a small victory. From there we ferried across the river to Sanlúcar de Guadiana, Spain. There wasn’t much to do on that side, so we returned and enjoyed a tapas lunch back in Alcoutim.

The drive home followed the Rio Guadiana, with a stop at Villa Romana do Montinho das Laranjeiras and plenty of twisty turns to practice on the way back. Not the most traditional anniversary celebration, but very us.

Marriage, like Algarve driving, doesn’t always give you a full stop. You circle, you yield, sometimes you take the wrong exit and loop back around. The trick is staying in the same car, laughing when you miss the turn, and eventually finding the road that gets you there.

So here we are — thirty years later, countless circles, and still going in the same direction (most of the time).

Finding Calma

This week reminded me that calma isn’t about the absence of chaos — it’s about learning to move with it. Whether it’s shifting seasons, crowded roundabouts, or a milestone year, the trick is to keep circling until you find your lane.

More Portugal

Read more about daily life, the embarrassing moments, and the process for having a long stay in Portugal. If you are more of a picture person, follow me on Instagram.