Modo Natal - Shiny Penguin

This time last year, we had been here just over a week (see Semana Dois). Back then, the Christmas decorations were being staged but not yet officially unveiled. This year felt different. Sure, the stores and malls had been filled with Christmas items since Halloween, but the town itself seemed to show a bit more restraint. Then I blinked and, almost overnight, a switch flipped — Christmas Mode: Enabled.

Town Decorations

The tree at the Mercado went up on the evening of November 25th. The next morning, it still needed a bit of fluffing, but as we wandered through town, we noticed the decorations already hanging along the main street.

Then, on U.S. Thanksgiving, the lights switched on — and suddenly the whole town was glowing. In the dim evening light, we caught the beginnings of Santa’s Village being assembled in the main square.

Last year, Santa arrived on December 6th with a lively parade (see the video in Week 4 The Big Chill). This year, we’ll miss the big entrance because we’ll be in the Alsace region of northeastern France — but more on that later.

This year’s decorations are diffedrent than last years. Here’s a side-by-side comparison of last year vs this year.

Our Decorations

Of course, we started decorating too. And as soon as the box came out, the cats decided it was the perfect moment for a spontaneous photoshoot. We simply followed their artistic direction.

Melody’s Portraits

Maisy’s Portraits

Christmas Cards

Christmas cards aren’t really a thing here. I went looking for cards with a Portuguese vibe and found only a handful — none of them quite right. So I ended up making my own and joining an international Christmas card exchange, sending little pieces of Portugal out into the world.

Cruz Vermelha Loja

By mid-November, Christmas prep had begun at the Cruz Vermelha Loja. Although I’m normally in the warehouse sorting and storing donations, I helped out at the store to get everything ready for the season. With the warehouse and Loja separated by the river, moving items back and forth becomes a small dance of timing, coordination, and helpful hands.

Modo Natal: On

With Tavira lit up, the cats supervising, and small acts of giving grounding the season, it feels like Christmas has arrived here in its own gentle way. And now, as the lights begin to shimmer each night, we’re packing our bags for a very different December landscape: the Alsace, where the holidays feel almost storybook.

More Portugal

Read more about daily life, the embarrassing moments, and the process for having a long stay in Portugal. If you are more of a picture person, follow me on Instagram.