In August, the Algarve becomes crowded with tourists, and many of them are Portuguese. People from northern Portugal hurry down to the Algarve beaches to squeeze in a holiday before school starts and regular routines return.
Luckily, we know the quieter places …
Bordeira
I didn’t know there would be a test when we set out for Bordeira, a beach town in the western Algarve. When we got there, we were greeted by a giant metal sign that looked vaguely like a wave—it was the letter C. As we encountered a second and then a third letter, I thought they were spelling a word. I’m embarrassed to admit how long it took me to recognize the pattern. Later, in town, we found the B, and I was a stupid kind of excited by that.
This was part of a 5 km trail, with each viewpoint marked by one of these lettered signs. Many were just a short, easy walk along a wooden pathway.
I’m distraught to report that, as far as I could tell, it only went up to K.
We took a couple more pictures of the view. Despite whatever was happening with our hair in this picture, it wasn’t really that windy.
We also came across something unexpected. The Islamic Fishing Village (Povoado Islâmico de Pescadores) is a 12th-century archaeological site overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.
The map below shows the area we were exploring. The jutted-out area is where we found the route with the lettered signs. We went to look around and have lunch in the tiny village of Carrapateira and then decided to continue south to Sagres.
Carrapateira
Like all good villages, it has a church and a fort. The map tells us everything we need to know.
We stopped for lunch at the adorable restaurant Alecrim. This is the area where you will see people walking the Rota Vicentina, most likely along the section called the Trilho dos Pescadores (Fishermen’s Trail).
Sagres
We were heading south anyway, so why not continue to the southwesternmost point of Portugal?
Vila Nova de Milfontes
Another day, we went farther north to Vila Nova de Milfontes. We didn’t know what to expect, and we really like it that way. Here’s what the area looks like. Of note is the Mira River, which flows into the Atlantic Ocean.
We found parking nearby and checked out the beaches.
Then we continued into town, where the castle was the first thing we saw. The town is filled with colorful buildings, a tourist train, and many shops. The thought, “I could live here,” crossed my mind—until I saw that there was only one road in and out.
As we drove out of town, we stopped at a viewpoint, then spotted a panoramic swing and pulled over again to take in another view.
Here, you get a great view of the Mira River with the Atlantic Ocean in the distance, and you can see how visitors can choose between the river beach and the ocean beach.
We weren’t too far outside Vila Nova de Milfontes when Tom spotted a lighthouse. Of course, we had to go see it. And, of course, right next to it was a futebol pitch. Let’s take a look at what lies just beyond the pitch.
Oh, cliffs. Actually, the most beautiful I have ever seen. But what if the ball goes over the edge? That’s game over.
We continued south to visit the beach at Odeceixe—another beautiful spot.
Water Days
Back in Tavira and the surrounding area, summer settled into a rhythm of finding ways to cool off. As the heat intensified, we made it a priority to get into the water once or twice a week. Sometimes we paddled; sometimes we swam.
Vindima
Vindima is grape harvest day. This was our second year taking part at our former landlord’s farm. It is hard work, and even though we had some cloud cover, it was still a hot day. We picked around 26 buckets of grapes—compared with only six last year. Afterward, we went for a swim and then sat down to a wonderful lunch.
This was my first time eating rooster. The story was that this particular rooster had become overly amorous, and the hens were not getting a moment’s peace. Our former landlord finally had enough, which is how the rooster ended up in the lunch pot. Ironically, I can’t say it tasted like chicken. It was richer, darker, and a little more gamey.
The Projects
The Red Cross loja was closed for the month of August, but since I volunteer in the warehouse, I didn’t get a break. It was oppressively hot in the warehouse—an old convent—so I decided to bring the sorting back to the apartment. This is what that looked like.
I took on another project: setting up a YouTube channel and filming videos for a local organic farmer. I asked my brother—a retired Hollywood film editor—a few questions, and before long, he had joined the project. Here he is waiting to be picked up for a trip out to the farm.
It has been a lot of fun. So far, we have filmed two episodes, and I think we are going to be at this for a while. In the meantime, please subscribe to the YouTube channel.
Tavira
What everyday life looks like in Tavira.
Tavira Plaza is where you’ll find a supermarket, clothing stores, home and electronics stores, and always something to keep the kids entertained. This summer, it was a ducky ride, and it was so cute.
Normal summer nights in not-so-normal situations (IYKYK). We ended up having dinner at O Castelo after our road trip to Lisbon made it only as far as Loulé.
A brief moment spent looking at a house that needed a lot of work. It had so much potential, but also a lot of unknown costs—starting with a new roof.
The small moments find us. Here, we were able to “watch” our son and his wife run the San Francisco Marathon from afar.
Rediscovering hobbies like watercolor painting.
Listening to a Beatles cover band in Tavira’s main square. And, as the song goes, “There are places I remember …”
Recently Captured
And with that, we’ve covered August—from A to chameleon.
More Portugal
Read more about daily life, the embarrassing moments, and the process for having a long stay in Portugal. If you are more of a picture person, follow me on Instagram.
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