That time when buying potatoes became a Portuguese verb pop quiz: batata cozer vs batata assar. Standing there, feeling like I’m being tested on two different subjects at once — vocabulary and cooking. Freezing momentarily, because this isn’t just labeling. This is a commitment.
What exactly happens if I get it wrong? What if I boil the potatoes meant for roasting… or roast the ones meant for boiling? Is this a tree-falls-in-the-woods situation, or are there real consequences — texture failure, a quiet disappointment, a Portuguese grandmother appearing out of nowhere to correct me?
It feels like one of those situations where nothing technically stops you… but something important is lost. And somewhere I can’t help but imagine, generations of avós silently shaking their heads.
Dining Out
O Caseiro
Potatoes take a starring role in a lot of Portuguese plates. At O Caseiro, an unassuming restaurant filled with Portuguese locals, this became clear almost immediately.
I ordered one of the plates of the day: entrecosto com molho de laranja — spareribs with orange sauce. It arrived with a salad, rice, and, of course, potatoes. Fried this time. And naturally, I wondered: were these cozer or assar potatoes? Or is there a third category I haven’t even unlocked yet?
At this point, I’m realizing there’s an entire potato system operating just beneath the surface — one I do not yet understand. But I’m very happy to be on the receiving end of it.
Nikita
Nikita is a popular restaurant a block from the river. It feels a little different — less local, more polished — but still very good.
We ordered wild boar meatballs, duck, and borrego (with potatoes). Rich, flavorful, and just a little indulgent. The kind of meal that feels like you’re celebrating something, even if you’re not entirely sure what.
LPA
LPA is a tapas restaurant in Ayamonte. It’s simply divine — bold, colorful decor paired with artistic plates of food that almost feel too pretty to eat.
We were in Spain, so the potatoes took the night off. I assume this was intentional.
Explorations
The third waterfall
The first waterfall, Pego do Inferno, is well known and frequented. The second waterfall in Quinta Bonita takes a little exploring to find. The third was nearby, but not obvious. It took Tom another bike ride to track it down — and then he came back for me.
Castro Marim
Castro Marim is known for its medieval castle, which can be clearly seen from the Spanish town of Ayamonte. This time, we headed to the Nature Reserve and found an interesting trail system that we will come back to one morning. In the meantime, enjoy these cattle.
Monte Francisco
In the municipality of Castro Marim is the small town of Monte Francisco. Here, there’s a monument to the mother of Paco de Lucía, a renowned flamenco guitarist.
In Largo Paco de Lucía, the placard reads: Mother Lucia, you left this beautiful place out of necessity, without knowing that you would create a great family of artists and the greatest flamenco guitarist of all time. Both you and your music crossed all borders.
Olhão
Olhão is my reminder that I need to practice the lh sound — and then immediately land the nasal ão. Once I can do that, I will have arrived. Until then, I’m just visiting.
Tom, of course, rode his bike the 60 km round trip one day while I was in language class, and later drove me out to see the beach he found.
On the way back, we passed a traditional two-floor fishing house. Historically significant, as the town grew from a small fishing settlement in the 17th century. The house is now an AL (Alojamento Local) — a short-term rental. Nice to see the history still standing.
Packing with Cats
Sometimes (ok, all the time), they aren’t super helpful.
Open suitcase? Bed.
Folded clothes? Sit on them.
Carefully organized piles? Not anymore.
Progress is slow. They have no concerns. We leave for Italy today. They will not be joining us, but they do seem intent on reminding us of that.
Recently Captured
Tube Man
This was my first time seeing a flailing, air-filled figure outside a business in Portugal. I hurried to capture it. The result was a blur, which feels undeserved.
Scratch and Sniff
Imagine the smell of orange blossoms when you look at this picture. It almost feels like you should be able to.
Cabanas de Tavira
This is the town just east of us: 10 minutes by car, 20 by bike, 30 by paddle (with the prevailing tides), or an hour if you feel like walking it.
Mystery Food?
A restaurant on the edge of Monte Francisco called Restaurante Mystério.
I’m not entirely convinced that “mystery” is a cuisine I’m ready to embrace.
I would at least like to know what the potatoes are planning.
More Portugal
Read more about daily life, the embarrassing moments, and the process for having a long stay in Portugal. If you are more of a picture person, follow me on Instagram.
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