Day 3: CESELLI – SPOLETO, (17 km – 10.5 miles)


Today only 3 of us opted to walk. Elena had a chest congestion and asthma flair up and the heat from yesterday made today a rest day for Nehitah & Lois.

The trail was tougher today, but the weather cooler. We start with Judy as our guide near Ceselli and ascend for about two hours, with flat sections peppered throughout allowing us to catch our breath and walk with long strides. The hiking takes us through woods, forests, creeks and abandoned hamlets. The views of the mountains, the gorge and the valley below were incredible. I also quite enjoyed the stretches where I walked alone on the single track. I could pause within the woods, look at the dappled light on the leaves, and take in small sounds such as a slight breeze weaving through the trees.

At the top, we stop for a delicious lunch of fruit and sandwiches made from thick flavorful bread and filled with prosciutto, marinated eggplant, cheese, and tomato. Then, with Virgino, we start a gradual descent through a meadow and around a bend, serenaded by a pack of dogs on the neighboring farms. We pass by lines of laundry drying, chickens walking about on the street. We finish this part of the hike quickly, ending in a park where the van awaits. Jumping in for a short ride into the town of Spoleto, just in time actually, as rain started to fall in large droplets.

Our hotel is very nice and has a large shower. Showers here are about the width of your body and with no ledges for soap and shampoo, you feel a bit like a contortionist. Today I feel zestfully clean!

The rain has let up – just scattered sprinkles and weather permitting we will tour around Spoletto with our guide, Virgino, at 5:15pm before going for dinner.