From stone walls to market stalls, this past week brought us two very different adventures. First, a drive inland to Mértola, where castle walls, winding lanes, and the Guadiana River reminded us how deeply history runs through Portugal’s smaller towns. Then back to Tavira for the XI Feira da Dieta Mediterrânica — a three-day celebration of music, food, and traditions that filled the streets along the Rio Gilão.
Mértola
We set out from Tavira, heading inland through Fonte Salgada, and quickly found that the drive itself was part of the adventure.
At the Miradouro de Vale Covo, we discovered a panoramic swing and paused to take in the view. So far we’ve come across five of these swings (see the Everything Bagel for the others).
Not long after, a dirt road caught our eye. Knowing Tom’s affinity for back roads, I suggested we turn back and give it a try. This one turned out to be one of the smoother dirt tracks we’ve found, leading us past an old windmill — restored now as a private home, its sails long gone but its silhouette still striking.
The road wound us through the small villages of Cabacinhos, Cabaços, and Traviscosa. Fun fact: two of those names translate to gourd.
We paused in Vaqueiros to step inside the quiet church and admire the old community ovens still standing nearby. A little further on, Martim Longo announced itself with a small windmill and a cheerful welcome sign.
We made a full stop in Giões, where a playful statue of an Iberian Lynx demanded a photo, as did the nearby church.
From there the road dipped through São Sebastião dos Carros, and finally, on a rise ahead, we caught our first glimpse of Mértola’s castle.
By noon we had arrived in Mértola, heading first to the castle after a stop at the Antiga Mesquita, the mosque-turned-church at the center of town.
Mértola had all the picturesque touches: a fonte, a sign pointing the way back to the Algarve, cascades of bougainvillea, a crocheted bench seat, cobbled lanes, a distant moinho, and sweeping river views.
Lunch at Vila Velha was a highlight — a wonderful view, a friendly waiter, and plates of sardinhas filetes and porco prato that hit the spot.
A short drive took us up to Cerrinho das Neves, where we looked back at the castle, the hillside cemetery, and the bridge across the Guadiana.
By late afternoon we looped home, this time through Vila Real de Santo António, closing the day with a full circle — from Algarve to Alentejo and back again. By the time we rolled back into Tavira, I couldn’t help thinking how these Adventure Days always blur the line between the journey and the destination. A castle on the horizon, a swing on a ridge, a lynx statue in a village square — each stop added its own texture. Mértola may have been the goal, but the road there and back is where the true adventure lives.
Here’s the map of this adventure:
Feira da Dieta Mediterrânica
Something tells me this fair was about much more than the Mediterranean diet. Sure, we sampled ripe tomatoes and local honey, but we also indulged in pão com chouriço and even pão com javali. Now in its 11th year, the Feira da Dieta Mediterrânica brought Tavira to life with culinary demonstrations, traditional music and dance, exercise events sponsored by local gyms, and rows of artisans selling their craft.
The weather couldn’t have been better — clear skies, a waxing moon, and just enough breeze to keep things comfortable. Here’s what it looked like to roam through the streets and along the riverfront stalls, where music, and conversation spilled into every corner.
Blood Moon
On the evening of September 7, 2025, the skies treated us to a blood moon — a total lunar eclipse that turned the moon a deep copper red. It was an overcast night and so we didn’t get to see all of that, but I did manage to capture this picture.
More Portugal
Read more about daily life, the embarrassing moments, and the process for having a long stay in Portugal. If you are more of a picture person, follow me on Instagram.
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