No Church For You

Tavira is said to have 37 churches but I cannot locate that many! Even Tavira’s Guide to Churches and Chapels lists only 21. Perhaps the classification (church vs chapel ), the century built, or the parish where it resides explains the discrepancy. What I do know is that not all are open to the public (hence the name of this post).

I have personally visited 16. Five are included in my Church Starter Pack post and 11 are in this post. At the end of this blog post, I’ll list names of the churches and Tavira parishes. Please note that the quoted text blocks are copied from the placards outside of each church.

Igreja de São Francisco

I have heard that this church is never open to the public.

CHURCH OF SAINT FRANCIS
14th, 18th AND 19th Centuries (reconstructions)
Founded between 1250 and 1330, the Convent of Saint Francis in Tavira was one of the most pre-eminent buildings in the medieval Algarve. It was subsequently devastated by two earthquakes (1722 and 1755), a collapse (1840) and a fire (1881). The various interventions have resulted in a complex building that is now different in appearance from the original. With the extinction of the religious orders in 1834, the convent was sold at a public auction and the church was handed over to the Third Order of Saint Francis, one of the most prestigious in the city, having established itself here in 1670.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Ondas

This church is open to the public. When entering, the volunteer told us that everything was made of wood (madeira) and knocked on a pillar to demonstrate.

OUR LADY OF THE WAVES
15th, 16th and 18th centuries (reconstruction)
This church belonged to the brotherhood of São Pedro Gonçalves Telmo (Blessed Peter Gonzalez), founded in the fifteenth century and made up of seafarers and fishermen. The original building was enlarged in Renaissance style in the mid-16th century, benefiting from the patronage of the Crown and the noble Meneses family. Due to damage sustained in the 1755 earthquake, the church had to be rebuilt the following year; architect Diogo Tavares e Ataíde was in charge of the project. Inside, a set of retables and 18th-century images identify the main devotions of Tavira’s seafarers. The magnificent painting on the ceiling, done by a local artist, Luís António Pereira, in 1765, is particularly noteworthy.

The church is a keystone shape with a main altarpiece,4 side altarpieces, and ceiling painted in an illusionist perspective. Saints associated with seafarers are worshipped in this church. In the main altarpiece, you’ll find a statue of the patron saint, Saint Pedro Gonçalves Telmo holding a caravel (a small sailing ship).

The altarpiece of Nossa Senhora das Ondas, pictured below, is magnificent. Also throughout the church are small details such as a tile piece depicting a sea journey. In front of it is a plant situated on top of lace, most likely a symbolic tradition.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo

This church was brightly lit up in December. Situated on a hill, the church’s outline could be seen from the far side of the Rio Gilão. A lot of cars park here during the day but I am uncertain if it is open to the public.

OUR LADY OF MOUNT CARMEL
18th century
Construction began in 1747. The church is one of the most sumptuous in the Algarve, reflecting the importance of the Third Order of Our Lady of Mount Carmel in Tavira in the mid-18th century. The church was designed to connect to the convent church of the Barefoot Carmelites, which was also under construction at the time but was never finished. The interior, in the shape of a Latin cross, is richly ornamented with retables, images and paintings that date from the last quarter of the 18th century and evoke the leading figures in Carmelite spirituality. The embellishment of the chancel and the main retable (1780) stands out for its Baroque splendor and is acclaimed as a masterpiece of Algarve carving.

Igreja do Convento de Santo António dos Capuchos

We walked over with high hopes of going into this church. Although we could not get inside, we were treated to stork activity above one of the bell towers.

CHURCH OF ST. ANTHONY OF THE CAPUCHINS
17th Century
This church belonged to the decommissioned convent of Saint Anthony of the Capuchins, which began to be built in 1612, on the site of the former Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Esperança (Our Lady of Good Hope). It is an example of 17th-century “chã” architecture and of the austerity that was characteristic of the Capuchin Franciscans. It consists of a simple, rectangular floor plan, a single nave and a chancel. The main façade was remodelled during the second half of the eighteenth century, when a Baroque frontispiece and large window were added. Inside, you can admire a noteworthy set of eighteenth-century clay sculptures depicting the life of Saint Anthony, as well as other artwork from the 16th to 19th

Ermida de São Sebastião

This is the church in our neighborhood, and we have been inside multiple times because they held concerts here in November and December. The interior of this church is also completely made of wood, and the volunteer is happy to show you by knocking. There is also some significant works of art inside.

CHAPEL OF SAINT SEBASTIAN
15th and 18th centuries (reconstruction)
Medieval in origin, this chapel was dedicated to the saint considered to be an advocate against epidemics. It was administered by the Brotherhood of Saint Sebastian, comprising officials from Tavira Municipal Council, which promoted the reconstruction of the chapel in 1745, in accordance with a project attributed to Diogo Tavares e Ataíde. After the reconstruction, the exuberant painting of the interior was carried out, with considerable scenographic effect; the ten panels on the life of Saint Sebastian (1759), painted by Diogo de Mangino, are particularly worthy of note and are considered the most complete pictorial set on the life of the saint that exists in Portuguese art.

Ermida de Santa Ana

This church is located on top a hill right next to Radio Gilão, the local radio station. I am uncertain if the church is open to the public.

CHAPEL OF SANTA ANA (SAINT ANNE)
14th and 18th centuries
Administered by the Order of Saint James, this chapel already existed in the 14th century and is one of the oldest in Tavira. It was rebuilt during the 18th century – the year 1727 is visible on the bell tower – and subsequently served as the chapel for the Governor of the Algarve, as part of his palace. The interior was redecorated during this period and the main retable, in national style gilt carving is particularly worthy of note it was purchased by Tavira Municipal Council in 1936 and the military facilities adjacent to the church were later demolished. The church was restored and converted for use as a museum in 2006.

Ermida de São Brás

This chapel is steps away from Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo. LIke the other churches, it is unclear if this is open to the public.

CHAPEL OF SÃO BRÁS (SAINT BLAISE)
15th and 18th centuries (reconstruction)
Dating from medieval times, the chapel used to be located outside the city. It was dedicated to the saint, who was believed to be responsible for miraculous cures. It was founded as a result of popular devotion and was administered for centuries by the now-extinct Brotherhood of Saint Blaise. Work was carried out on it in the mid-18th century, under the responsibility of master stonemason Diogo Tavares e Ataide, resulting in its present-day appearance. At that time, a side porch was demolished and the nave was enlarged, while the main façade was given a new look with expressive stonework frames and a dynamic Baroque pediment.

Ermida de São Roque

You’ll find this church situated in the neighborhood behind Pousada do Convento da Graça. It is unclear whether this chapel is open to the public.

CHAPEL OF SÃO ROQUE (SAINT ROCH)
16th and 18th centuries (reconstruction)
Belonging to the Brotherhood of Saint Roch, this was initially a late-Gothic temple, dating from the 16th century, a time when the cult of Saint Roch was especially popular in Portugal. It is believed that its reconstruction in the mid-18th century was the work of architect Diogo Tavares e Ataíde, who enlarged the temple and modified its configuration, introducing Baroque features.The temple was abandoned in 1862 and its artwork was removed. Having been purchased by Tavira Municipal Council in 1935, it was subsequently used as kennels and as a warehouse before being rehabilitated in 2016/17.

Capela de Nossa Senhora do Livramento

We pass this church when we walk to the Tavira Plaza, which is often. This church is a real eye catcher with its beautiful tilework. I am content to not go inside this church, as so far I have only seen it open for funerals.

SAINT LAZARUS or OUR LADY OF DELIVERANCE
16th and 18th Centuries (reconstruction)
Built on the outskirts of the town in the early 16th century by local devotees of Saint Lazarus, the patron saint of lepers and protector against disease. The reconstruction of the chapel began in 1698, at which time it was administered by the fishermen and seafarers who belonged to the Brotherhood of Our Lady of Deliverance. The main façade dates from the early 18th century; it was remodelled in the late 19th century when it was lined with tiles. Inside, there are 18th-century retables, images of the patron saints and various maritime ex-votos, which bear witness to the chapel’s connection to seafarers.

Capela de Nossa Senhora da Piedade

This little chapel is tucked away along the river on the way to the bus station. It doesn’t appear to be open to the public.

CHAPEL OF OUR LADY OF PIETY
18th Century
This chapel belonged to the Brotherhood of Our Lady of Piety and was built in 1758 next to the old Fonte da Praça, alongside the castle wall. The portal is identical to some of the portals of the Convent of Graça, and is decorated with a burning heart, pierced through with a dagger. Inside, there is a late Baroque retable dating from the second half of the 18th century and featuring a painted canvas portraying Our Lady of Piety.

Capela de Nossa Senhora da Consolação

This little church had a nativity scene inside over the Christmas holiday. It is situated on the main street of Tavira, Rua da Liberdade.

OUR LADY OF CONSOLATION
17th Century
Situated in front of the old Tavira Prison, demolished in 1918, along with the sacristy and the hermit’s house. It dates back to 1648, the year in which the brotherhood of Nossa Senhora da Consolação dos Presos (Our Lady of the Consolation of Prisoners) was founded. The brotherhood’s specific aim was to provide spiritual support for the inmates of the old prison. Tradition has it that this is the chapel where the condemned prisoners spent their last hours. Inside, the gilt-carved altarpiece is worthy of note. Dating from the mid-17th century, it features paintings dedicated to the Virgin Mary by Tavira-born artist João Rodrigues Andino (1635-1694).

List of Churches

Here are the places that I visited. All of them are in the civil parish of Tavira (Santa Maria e Santiago), a union of two parishes: Santa Maria and Santiago. Most of these churches would be considered to be in Santiago and the southern part of Santa Maria.

  1. Igreja Matriz de Santa Maria do Castelo
  2. Igreja Matriz de Santiago
  3. Igreja de Misericórdia
  4. Igreja de São José
  5. Igreja de São Paulo
  6. Igreja de San Francisco (not open to public)
  7. Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Ondas (not open to public)
  8. Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo (not open to public)
  9. Igreja do Convento de Santo António (not open to public)
  10. Ermida de São Sebastião
  11. Ermida de Santa Ana (not open to public)
  12. Ermida de São Brás (not open to public)
  13. Ermida de São Roque (not open to public)
  14. Capela de Nossa Senhora so Livramento (not open to public)
  15. Capela de Nossa Senhora da Piedade (not open to public)
  16. Capela de Nossa Senhora da Consolação (not open to public)

Tavira Parishes

Este Mapa das Freguesias de Tavira (this map of the parishes of Tavira) is a good visual. I copied this image from this webpage.

The municipality of Tavira is divided into 6 civil parishes, three are unions.

  1. Tavira (Santa Maria e Santiago) – Union
  2. Conceição e Cabanas de Tavira – Union
  3. Luz de Tavira e Santo Estêvão – Union
  4. Santa Luzia
  5. Santa Catarina da Fonte do Bispo
  6. Cachopo

I live in Tavira (Santa Maria e Santiago), and as I was preparing this post, I saw this official vehicle with the crest of Santa Maria and the crest of Santiago.

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