The plan was simple enough: walk for six days and arrive in Matera. The reality included wolves, caves, old paths, and a landscape that kept revealing itself.
Day 1: Bitetto to Cassano delle Murge
Today we began a six-day trek on the Cammino Materano, starting with the segment from Bitetto to Cassano delle Murge—roughly 20 kilometers.
Before setting out, we had a short briefing on how the trail works. The route is marked with green and yellow signs, and when in doubt, follow the yellow arrow. Bitetto gave us a beautiful sendoff, with its Romanesque cathedral watching over the morning start.
From there, we followed old masserie trails, paths once linking fortified farmhouses across the countryside. We passed olive groves, oak woodland, and occasional trulli that looked as though they had simply grown out of the land.
Later came the climb onto the Murgia Plateau, a broad limestone landscape shaped by caves, sinkholes, and shallow ravines carved by ancient water.
By the time we reached Cassano delle Murge, the legs had been introduced to the week ahead. We had a picnic lunch on the trail and dinner was at Macelleria Grill Barbecue.
Day 2: Cassano delle Murge to Santeramo in Colle
The second day’s walk to Santeramo in Colle was an absolutely beautiful stage of the Via Peuceta. It was a pigs, horses, dogs, and cattle kind of day—as if the countryside had decided to keep us entertained.
We were on the lookout for a farm with a café where we could take a break and have something cold to drink. Instead of finding it, it found us. A man—who turned out to be the owner—was standing on the trail beside his B&B and farm. He asked if we’d like him to release his cattle, and we nodded, not fully prepared for the large horned animals about to come through the gate.
As this was happening, we noticed he was wearing a brace across his back. Catching our curiosity, he pounded his chest and told us he was like Tarzan. He then showed us a paralupi wall he had built, designed with an outward jutting section to keep wolves from climbing over. Inside, he proudly shared photos of his family. It was one of those encounters that reminded us the trail passed through real lives, not just landscapes.
We stayed in the beautiful town of Altamura.
Dinner was at Antica Osteria Pein Assutt. Horse meat appeared to be the local specialty, which helped narrow my options immediately.
At the end of the meal, the highly combustible digestivi arrived in plastic watering cans. We tried Padre Peppe, a traditional walnut-based amaro produced in Altamura since 1832, and Finocchietto, an aromatic liqueur made from wild fennel.
I’m not sure all this high-octane digestivo is ideal preparation for a hike, but there we are.
Day 3: Santeramo in Colle to Altamura
Our third day took us from Santeramo in Colle to Altamura, roughly 20 kilometers through another beautiful stretch of countryside.
Along the way, we stopped at Grotta di Sant’Angelo, a cave sanctuary marked by old inscriptions and traces of medieval frescoes. We weren’t allowed to take pictures here.
Soon after, we encountered some rather large dogs who barked at us and began to follow us. Once things settled down, their much smaller friend joined us for a while. He became our security detail.
Later came one of the day’s highlights: a farm full of life. There were goats, sheep, cattle, dogs, and cats in every direction. We sampled fresh cheese and the famous Pane di Altamura, which felt like exactly the right reward for walking there.
We were on our own for dinner, so we went to Antico Forno Santa Caterina, a bakery dating to 1391 and one of the oldest ovens still operating in Italy. Once a communal oven for the town, it is still turning out bread more than six centuries later.
We had focaccia, which felt like the correct decision.
Day 4: Toritto to Altamura
Our fourth day was shorter—around 15.5 kilometers—and a welcome change of pace after three longer stages.
This was also one of the days our guides adjusted the official route, trading mileage for something more interesting. Instead of following the standard path, we took the Strada Vicinale della Sentinella, a segment of Sentiero Italia, and finished at Pulo di Altamura, the largest sinkhole in the region.
That evening we stayed in Gravina in Puglia and explored the town after the walk.
We visited Gravina Sotterranea, an excavated network of ancient tunnels, cave dwellings, cisterns, and rock-cut churches beneath Gravina in Puglia. I’m not naturally a cave person, but I made it through.
We also came across the local bird whistle known as the cola, whose cheerful sound seemed to echo through the streets.
On the way to dinner, we admired Ponte Acquedotto Madonna della Stella stretching across the ravine—then learned it was closed because someone with a great deal of money was filming The Resurrection of the Christ, a sequel to The Passion of the Christ. Another reason, apparently, to keep moving.
We had dinner at Al Vecchio Crapo. The name gave pause. The food did not.
Day 5: Gravina in Puglia to Bosco Difesa Grande
Day five took us from Gravina in Puglia toward Bosco Difesa Grande, another 20-kilometer stage. We took a shuttle out of town in place of walking across Ponte Acquedotto Madonna della Stella. Nearly identical experiences.
We began by looking back on Gravina from a distance—one last view before heading into Bosco Difesa Grande, one of the largest natural forests in southern Italy.
The day brought plenty of uphill walking, some steep climbs, and relentless wind with strong gusts that made even standing still feel like effort.
At one point, I looked up and saw a wolf moving through the landscape above of us. Later, while walking alone for a stretch, I noticed something behind me that looked very much like a wolf. Each time I turned around, it stopped. Each time I resumed walking, it started again. Thankfully, this turned out to be a German Shepherd.
That evening, we ate at Osteria Radici, where the tables were set inside little caves alcoves scattered inside. We were in a large section and this is our table.
Day 6: Arrive to Matera
The guides had again altered the standard route, and it turned out to be the most beautiful way to arrive. Our entry into Matera was nothing like I expected. There would be no simple walk into town. Instead, we descended into an ancient ravine, visited old stone churches with fading frescoes, crossed a suspended bridge, and climbed back out the other side.
We began on the plateau at the prehistoric remains of Murgia Timone and the rock church of Chiesa San Falcione.
From Belvedere Murgia Timone, we looked out over Matera itself and stopped for a final group photo together.
Then came the descent.
On the way down, we visited two more cave churches tucked into the ravine: Chiesa Madonna delle Tre Porte and Asceterio di Sant’Agnese.
The route down was slow and technical. At times there were cables to hold onto. In the narrowest sections, the guides helped us through rocky drops and awkward footing. After that, the suspended wooden bridge felt almost relaxing.
The final climb into town was easier by comparison. At the top, a man welcomed us as I took my last step. I somehow managed to tell him how beautiful the town was. He smiled and said he sees it for the first time every day—and he had lived there all his life.
Trek Summary
There are six distinct routes within the Cammino Materano. The one we walked was the Via Peucetia, which runs from Bari to Matera.
Our guides adjusted stages to improve the overall experience. With van support, they could start or finish us at different points and avoid less interesting stretches when it made sense. You can do this hike too, check out the Spanish Steps website.
The official stages of the Via Peucetia are:
- Bari to Bitetto — approx. 24 km
- Bitetto to Cassano delle Murge — approx. 28 km
- Cassano delle Murge to Santeramo in Colle — approx. 24 km
- Santeramo in Colle to Altamura — approx. 25 km
- Altamura to Gravina in Puglia — approx. 21 km
- Gravina in Puglia to Picciano — approx. 22 km
- Picciano to Matera — approx. 15 km
You can see the official route here: Via Peucetia.
Firsts & Lasts
Two pictures: the first morning in Bitetto and the last morning in Matera.
Two short videos showing everything in between: 💎 Hike (part 1) and 💎 Hike (part 2).
Six days earlier, Matera was just a name on the map. The people I hiked with were strangers. I’m a bit of a crier when it comes to goodbyes, which tells you the rest.
More Portugal
Read more about daily life, the embarrassing moments, and the process for having a long stay in Portugal. If you are more of a picture person, follow me on Instagram.
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